No one can deny the splendor of Granada and the magnificent Alhambra, but if you’re looking for a break from countless tourists, head to the nearby and much more laid-back district of Guadix. The eroded landscape around Guadix alone is enough to justify a visit, but what makes it truly special are the numerous cave dwellings, emblematic castles, and prehistoric dolmens. Guadix is still relatively unknown, and while most visitors come on short day trips, a longer visit can be extremely gratifying.
Guadix: Cave Dwellings
Evocative of Tolkien’s hobbit homes, the iconic cave houses of the barrio de las cuevas in Guadix will transport you back in time. These hand-carved houses dug into the hills maintain a pleasant temperature year-round, offering a unique living experience. It is difficult to truly capture the allure of the town in a picture, but you can try your best at one of several viewpoints. Two of the best are Mirador de Padre Poveda, close to the Cave Church, and Mirador Cerro de las Balas. While the area is best explored on foot, there is also a tourist train option from the city center. Don’t forget to visit the newer city center, where you’ll find the stunning Catedral de Guadix and the Moorish fortress (Alcazaba), showcasing the interesting mixture of cultures that is common throughout Andalusia.
Tip: For a truly memorable local experience, consider overnighting in one of the numerous cave houses.
La Calahorra: The Unconquered Fortress
With the impressive Sierra Nevada mountain range as its backdrop, the renaissance Castillo de La Calahorra is a sight to behold. Although the castle is in private hands and only open to the public once a week, taking a stroll around this unusual Italian-style castle is still worth it. Pay attention to the remaining ruins of the wall and the strategically placed arrow-slits that ensured this castle would never be conquered.
Gorafe: Dolmens and Badlands
A short trip from Guadix (only a 20-minute drive) will take you to the heart of Spain’s Neolithic culture in Gorafe. The landscape here is scattered with over 200 megalithic burial sites known as dolmens. Many of these dolmens are located close to the main roads and are easily accessible. For those interested in delving deeper into the history of the dolmens, there is an impressive interpretation center in the town. Gorafe is nestled in a fascinating landscape that resembles the settings of Wild West movies. You can also see ancient cave dwellings on the cliffs of the canyons. Don’t miss the viewpoint of the Virgin of Fatima in the village, which offers splendid views of the entire town and the desert-like canyon.
Tip: You can also visit the old cliff caves by taking a small trail behind the graveyard.
Guadix and its cave houses, along with the nearby attractions of La Calahorra and Gorafe, present a magnificent escape from the bustling crowds of Granada. Take some time to explore this hidden gem and immerse yourself in the rich history and natural beauty of the region.